Service area · Mercer County

Chimney Services in Ewing, NJ

Three out of four Ewing homes heat with gas, and most of the township's housing was built before 1980. When today's gas appliances vent into an older masonry flue, the water in their exhaust can condense inside the chimney.

White house with a brick chimney among green trees
On this page
  1. Chimney profile
  2. What the numbers suggest for chimneys in Ewing
  3. What condensation damage can look like
  4. Confirming the cause and correcting it
  5. Local questions
  6. Sources

Chimney profile: Ewing

Census estimates for 14,908 housing units (13,978 occupied).

When homes were built

  • Before 1940 12%
  • 1940–59 31%
  • 1960–79 29%
  • 1980–99 12%
  • 2000 or later 16%

How occupied homes are heated

  • Utility gas 74%
  • Fuel oil 7%
  • Electricity 15%
  • Propane 2%
  • Wood 0.1%
  • Other or none 2%

Type of housing

  • Single-family, detached 60%
  • Single-family, attached 7%
  • 2–4 units 7%
  • 5+ units 26%

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, American Community Survey 2020–2024 5-year estimates, tables B25034, B25040 and B25024, via Census Reporter. Estimates have margins of error; small categories are approximate.

What the numbers suggest for chimneys in Ewing

Census estimates show 74% of Ewing's occupied homes heating with utility gas, 15% with electricity and 7% with fuel oil. Burning gas makes water vapor. DuraVent's technical guide on relining notes that gas-fired appliances produce a significant volume of moisture, and that efficient modern units leave little heat in the chimney to keep that moisture in vapor form.

Of Ewing's 14,908 housing units, 31% were built from 1940 to 1959, 29% from 1960 to 1979 and 12% before 1940. Masonry chimneys from those years were sized for the appliances of their day, which sent hotter exhaust up the flue than many current furnaces and water heaters. Our guide to chimney condensation explains the mechanism.

Detached houses make up 60% of units and buildings with five or more units 26%, and 16% of all housing was built in 2000 or later. These are township-wide estimates and tell you nothing certain about one chimney.

What condensation damage can look like

Condensation forms inside the flue, out of sight, so the evidence tends to surface somewhere else. The DuraVent guide lists signs such as wet spots, discolored plaster, peeling wallpaper, blistering paint and mildew on walls near the chimney; white efflorescence and spalling on the brick; and sand or small pieces of masonry collecting at the bottom of the flue.

In an article for ASTM Standardization News, reproduced on Rumford.com, Jim Buckley describes the chain of events: flue gases that enter the chimney just above their dew point cool below it, condense into water and acids, eat out mortar joints and soak the surrounding masonry, which repeated freezing then breaks down. The worst case he describes is a small, cool vent emptying into a much larger tile flue.

Several of those signs have other possible causes. A ceiling stain can come from failed flashing, and white staining can come from rain soaking the brick from outside. The guides on white staining and stains near the chimney cover those possibilities.

Confirming the cause and correcting it

Telling condensation apart from rain entry means looking at both ends of the chimney and the flue between them:

  • At the base. The cleanout and the bottom of the flue, where debris from failing tile and mortar collects. Clearing it is part of furnace and boiler flue cleaning.
  • Inside the flue. A camera scan, when the flue allows, shows eroded joints and flaking tile and where they are worst.
  • At the top. Crown, cap and flashing, so that a rain leak is not mistaken for condensation, or the other way around. When the source is still unclear, controlled water testing on the outside helps rule rain in or out.

The usual correction is a flue matched to the appliance it serves. DuraVent describes a properly sized, insulated stainless steel liner as a way to keep flue gases warmer, reduce condensation and restore draft, and the appliance's installation instructions set the size. See chimney liners.

Draft is a safety question too. DuraVent ties poor draft to efficient gas appliances discharging into large masonry flues, and exhaust that does not rise properly can end up indoors. A sounding carbon monoxide alarm means getting out of the house before anything else, then calling 911.

Local questions

Is condensation only a problem in old chimneys?

The match between flue and appliance matters more than age. A large, cold flue serving a small or efficient gas appliance is the setup the technical literature warns about, and that can happen in any masonry chimney.

Does a high-efficiency furnace use the chimney at all?

Many condensing furnaces vent through a pipe out the wall or roof and do not use the chimney. Your furnace's installation instructions, or your heating contractor, can tell you how yours vents.

Can a coating on the outside brick prevent condensation damage?

No. Condensation forms inside the flue, so a water repellent on the outside brick does not reach the cause.

What is the debris at the bottom of my flue?

It could be soot, fallen mortar, flakes of tile or nesting material. Sand and small pieces of masonry are among the condensation signs liner makers list, but only an inspection can say which you have.

Sources

  1. U.S. Census Bureau, American Community Survey 2020–2024 5-year estimates (tables B25034, B25040, B25024), via Census Reporter
  2. DuraVent: Relining Chimneys for Gas Appliances (Ventinox technical guide L1039, PDF)
  3. Jim Buckley: Gas Flues and Masonry Chimneys (ASTM Standardization News, 1995), via Rumford.com