Service area · Bergen County

Chimney Services in Oakland, NJ

Oakland is a borough of mostly detached houses built between 1940 and 1979. If you are thinking about turning an open fireplace into a real heat source with a wood insert, start with a few checks on the fireplace and chimney you already have.

Living room with a stone fireplace and armchairs
On this page
  1. Chimney profile
  2. What the numbers suggest for chimneys in Oakland
  3. A fit check before an insert goes in
  4. What changes once the insert is running
  5. Local questions
  6. Sources

Chimney profile: Oakland

Census estimates for 4,683 housing units (4,488 occupied).

When homes were built

  • Before 1940 7%
  • 1940–59 44%
  • 1960–79 31%
  • 1980–99 9%
  • 2000 or later 9%

How occupied homes are heated

  • Utility gas 89%
  • Fuel oil 5%
  • Electricity 4%
  • Propane 1%
  • Wood 1%

Type of housing

  • Single-family, detached 91%
  • Single-family, attached 4%
  • 2–4 units 3%
  • 5+ units 2%

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, American Community Survey 2020–2024 5-year estimates, tables B25034, B25040 and B25024, via Census Reporter. Estimates have margins of error; small categories are approximate.

What the numbers suggest for chimneys in Oakland

Census estimates show about 44% of Oakland's 4,683 housing units built from 1940 to 1959 and another 31% from 1960 to 1979. Masonry fireplaces and chimneys from those decades were built to burn wood in an open firebox, and the fireplace you have was sized for that use. Our guide to the inside of the firebox describes the parts an insert will sit against.

About 89% of occupied homes heat with utility gas. Fuel oil follows at about 5% and electricity at about 4%. Wood is the main heating fuel for roughly 1% of households. Main heating fuel does not capture homes that burn wood as a supplement, which is where an insert usually fits.

About 91% of units are detached houses, so in most cases the fireplace, the chimney and the decision belong to one household.

A fit check before an insert goes in

The EPA describes fireplace inserts as similar in function and performance to free-standing wood stoves, designed to be installed within the firebox of an existing masonry or metal fireplace. That means the insert brings stove-like heat into a structure that was built for an open fire. These checks, in order, show whether your fireplace is a good candidate.

  1. What kind of fireplace is it?A masonry fireplace and a factory-built one follow different rules. Some factory-built fireplace manuals forbid adding a solid-fuel insert without written authorization from the maker. If yours is factory-built, find its manual or label first.
  2. What shape is the chimney in?The CSIA calls for a Level 2 inspection when an appliance of a dissimilar type is added or replaced. That inspection looks at the firebox, smoke chamber and flue before the insert covers them.
  3. How will the insert vent?The insert's installation manual sets how it connects to the chimney and what liner size it needs. A full-length liner sized to the insert is a common part of the job.
  4. Are the mantel and trim far enough away?An insert runs hotter at the front than an open fire. Our guide to clearances to combustibles explains what the manual will ask you to measure.
  5. Will the firebox opening and hearth fit the model?Measure the width, height and depth of the opening and the hearth in front of it before choosing a model.

What changes once the insert is running

An insert changes how the chimney is maintained. Exhaust leaves through the insert's liner, so that liner is what gets swept and inspected. Burning only dry, seasoned wood matters more in a closed appliance, since damp wood smolders and leaves more residue; see our firewood guide. The EPA notes that EPA-certified stoves burn cleaner and more efficiently than most uncertified models, which is worth checking when you compare inserts. Plan a sweep and inspection after the first season, when the buildup in the liner shows how the insert and your firewood behave together.

Ashes need a plan too. Coals in an insert's ash can stay hot long after the fire seems out, and our guide on getting rid of fireplace ashes covers metal containers and where to keep them.

Local questions

Wood insert or gas insert?

A wood insert needs a supply of dry firewood, ash handling and regular sweeping. A gas insert needs a gas line already at the fireplace, since we connect to existing lines only. Both need an inspected chimney and a vent sized for the appliance.

Can a wood insert vent into my existing clay flue?

The insert's installation manual decides how it must vent, and many call for a liner connected to the insert. The inspection shows whether the existing flue is sound and what size it is, which tells you how the manual's requirements apply.

How often does an insert's chimney need sweeping?

The CSIA cites the NFPA 211 standard that chimneys, fireplaces and vents be inspected at least once a year. Sweeping frequency depends on how much you burn and what builds up, which the inspection shows.

Can I add an insert to a factory-built fireplace?

That depends on the fireplace manufacturer's permission. Some manuals forbid adding a solid-fuel or gas insert without written authorization.

Sources

  1. U.S. Census Bureau, American Community Survey 2020–2024 5-year estimates (tables B25034, B25040, B25024), via Census Reporter
  2. U.S. EPA Burn Wise: Choosing Wood-Burning Appliances
  3. CSIA: The Three Levels of Chimney Inspections
  4. Majestic SSTB11 factory-built fireplace owner's manual (PDF)
  5. CSIA: Homeowner Resources and FAQ